SCIOLINO,
Elaine, A Parisian Hot Dog, Hold the Snark, The
New York Times, February 14, 2012.
Abstract : Chef Yannick Alléno revisits the famous hot dog.
Quotation : “Despite having three Michelin stars at his restaurant in the Meurice
hotel, Yannick Alléno considers himself a man of the people. His parents owned
a modest bistro in a Paris suburb, where they served croque-monsieurs and
sliced ham on buttered baguettes. “I was born behind the counter,” he said. He
hates dishes that seem as if they came out of a chemistry class.
Whenever he goes to New
York, he eats a hot dog from a street vendor. “I adore them,” he said. “Even
with the bad water they sit in all day.”
It wasn’t much of a
leap, then, for Mr. Alléno to create his own chien chaud.
Actually it is a veau
chaud (pronounced voh show) — literally hot veal — a slender nine-inch sausage
made from edible bits of a cooked calf head, or tête de veau. (The brains, eyes
and fat are left out, and egg white and tiny threads of veal added to hold it
together.)
The sausage is wrapped
in a casing and boiled in a stock of carrots, leeks, onions and cloves. Then
the casing is removed and the fragile sausage put in a crusty multigrain
baguette. [...]”
Index terms : French chef, hot dog.
Found with : RSS feed “Dining and wine” on The New York
Times.
MP
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