MARIANI,
John, In Defense of French Food, Esquire,
March 27, 2012.
Abstract : This article deals with the final days of
French Cuisine, and the author gives elements of his mind about french
restaurant.
Quotation : “ The final days of French
haute cuisine have been predicted about as often as those of Broadway, not least in
the plaintive title of Michael Steinberger's 2009 book Au Revoir to All That: Food, Wine, and the End of France, which details what he sees as a decline
in both standards and admiration for the glories of French cuisine.
You
hear the objections: No one wants to sit in a stuffy, pretentious French dining
room and eat expensive, heavy food full of foie gras and butter. People now
want to go to fast, casual places with menus full of pizza, hamburgers, short
ribs, mac-and-cheese, pork-belly sliders, and all the other staples of modern
gastronomy.
The
fact is, though, while the latter assertion is certainly true, the first is
not, by a long shot: There is as much French food on the trendiest of American
menus as there is American, Italian, or Asian. Those who dismiss French
restaurants remind me of Yogi Berra's saying of a restaurant, "Nobody goes
there anymore. It's too crowded." [...] The name on the door may be
thoroughly American, but the dishes on the menus of contemporary restaurants
owe a great deal to French cooking. It's hard to go anywhere without running
into the stuff. So, while it might be accurate that people aren't talking so
much about eating French food, the truth is we've always really loved it. ”
Index terms : French Food, french restaurant.
Found with : Google alert “french food”.
MP