Rogue Waves and Explorations of Coastal Wave Characteristics

Author:  Paul C. Liu

Date of publication:  April,13 2013
 

Abstract:

  
Presents the results of research on rogue waves from National Oceanic and Athmospheric Administration.

Extract: 

"The most difficult aspect of studying rouge waves in the oceans today is the scarcity of actual field measurements of rogue waves. A few rogue waves have been recorded accidently and are widely cited as examples, but the reality is that there are no strong rogue waves data sets available that can be readily used to establish a realistic probability for rogue waves."

"We were able to to dispel one of the long held contentions regarding rogue wave - that they are of rare occurrence. We examined a short GLERL wave data set recorded from a research tower in Lake Erie in 1981 and a longer wave data set recorded from a deepwater buoy in the Campos Basin offshore from Brazil in South Atlantic Ocean during 1992-1995. We were suprised to find evidence of many rogue waves occurrences (defined as maximum trough to crest wave heights greater than two times of significant wave height) within in these two conventional intermittent wave measurement environments. Based on these studies, we think that rogue/freak waves occur with much greater frequency than has been historically believed. The kind of wave profile that characterize rogue waves can happen for significant wave heights of 15 m, or 5 m, or even 0.5 m. Is such an event still considered a rogue or freak wave when it occurs at 0.5 m significant wave height? It may not be considered a rare occurrence, but it still occurs unexpectedly."

"Based on these studies, we think that rogue/freak waves occur with much greater frequency than has been historically believed."

Index terms:

Research/ National Oceanic and Athmospheric Administration/ Rogue waves

Found with:  Netvibes

Source: http://www.glerl.noaa.gov

URL: http://www.glerl.noaa.gov/res/Task_rpts/2002/ppliu02-3.html

By FG